Conductor's Masterpiece at Perry's Steakhouse & Grille

The "symphony kabob" ($39.95) at Perry's Steakhouse & Grille (9827 Katy Fwy., 832-358-9000, and other locations) is a combination of flavors and ingredients that together create the perfect harmony. Half the fun of this dish is its dramatic presentation. A stainless-steel stand arrives with a 15-inch skewer, and the waiter uses a pair of tongs to remove two of the largest shrimp you're ever likely to see, two medallions of beef Chateaubriand and a whole rock lobster tail, all expertly grilled. Two sauces are served with this dish — one, drawn butter for the seafood, the other, a red wine, peppercorn reduction for the meat. A simple side of garlic mashed potatoes and seasonal mixed vegetables completes this masterpiece.