This Plate is Hoppin' at Hugo's

Some people may seem disconcerted at the thought of eating grasshoppers, but it's not as bad as it seems, especially since their little heads and legs have been ripped off, making their bodies look like tiny shells. In Spanish, they're known as chapulines, and they're popular in the Mexican state of Oaxaca. At Hugo's (1602 Westheimer, 713-524-7744), they're pan-seared with finely diced onions, and they have a particularly earthy, grassy flavor. An order ($8) arrives with three blue-corn tortillas and three small bowls — one containing the crunchy little bugs, another, some freshly-made guacamole topped with queso fresco, and the third, a chipotle-tomatillo salsa.