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Published on January 04, 2007

Despite the generally second-class cuisine here, that doesn't mean some folks can't enjoy themselves. One evening, four couples occupied a long table and were making good use of the establishment's accommodating BYOB policy. They had brought along several bottles of various vinos and commandeered a waiter to keep their glasses refreshed. There was a great deal of laughter and spirited conversation.

Had I walked over and shared my razor-sharp insights about the quality of the food, they probably would have laughed with (and at) me, agreed whole-heartedly, then launched into another round of drinks. For them, Villagio's was a comfortable meeting place to break bread and socialize. If most of the food was scarcely up to the standards of an Olive Garden, so what? Would Olive Garden let them bring their own wine and appropriate a waiter for their exclusive use?

Similarly, when the weather's nice, there are a few tables outside where a handful of regulars while away the evening and take advantage of the $2-a-glass house wine. The wine I sampled wasn't top-notch, but it wasn't the sort of do-not-put-in-mouth plonk skeptics might expect.

What appears to be underwriting Villagio's right now is a steady weekday lunch trade feeding hungry employees from all the businesses nearby. Most of the evening menu is offered at midday for $4–$5 less per dish (except pizzas). But using lunch to prop up a faltering dinner trade can only last so long. Most likely, Villagio's will get better, or Villagio's will go away. Sigh.

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