A Simple Plan

In the transformation of Aries into Pic., there seems to have been no major architectural or interior design changes. Just some stylish tweaking. This remodeled residence on Montrose Boulevard still offers two clean, airy dining rooms, downstairs and up, with the latter slightly more comfortable, if only because it's somewhat less noisy. But there's no getting around the fact that this is a relatively small establishment and, when the weather doesn't permit outdoor seating on the appealing balcony and front patio, table space inside is at a premium. So far, most of those tables are filled weeknights and it's reservations-only on weekends. Tip: Try lunch, when nearly three quarters of the evening menu is available, and at lower prices.

In line with the "keep it simple" mantra, Pic. has, in effect, done away with its wine list. Oh, there's still wine being served -- but there is no real system, only a seemingly random printout on the back of the one-sheet menu. That approach might be workable for a dozen modest bottles. However, this is a fairly serious assortment, with about 90 selections, including a dozen in the $100 range. Presenting them in an apparent jumble like this (even if that's some sort of ranking by light to heavy) helps no one. "Simple" is not a synonym for lackadaisical.

Finally, we come to the matter of that intriguing name, Pic. Early reports that it was the French word for "peak," while believable, were in error. As the period indicates, it's an abbreviation. According to Tycer's wife, Pic. is short for "picture," which refers to food-industry jargon for the next group of orders a kitchen is going to prepare. See? she said. It's symbolic. I'm not sure I understand that, but like the restaurant itself, it piques my interest.