Fat Chance

Duck dishes can taste super-fatty, but not the Muscovy duck breast ($24.50) at Masraff's (1025 South Post Oak Lane, 713-355-1975). A plump, thickly sliced breast with a crisp skin sits on a bed of spaghetti squash. Accompanying it is a compote of figs, grapes and rhubarb, which adds a welcome sweetness. And duck-fat fans need not worry: On the side there's some duck confit, made by slowly cooking the bird in its own fat until it falls apart. It simply melts in your mouth.