As You Like It

When the waiter delivered the crawfish dinner ($15.95) at the Magnolia Bar & Grill (6000 Richmond, 713-781-6207), he asked with a wry smile, "Do you think that'll hold you for a while?" The massive dinner platter is a crawfish feast. No peeling, no mess, no sucking the heads -- just lustful enjoyment. The plate comes with lightly battered and fried crawfish with a spicy house cocktail sauce, a heaping helping of crawfish jambalaya and a crawfish pie, consisting of a puff pastry topped with some crawfish étouffée. There's also a fabulous crawfish au gratin, featuring -- you guessed it -- crawfish, swimming in a buttery, cheesy sauce. The only dilemma with this dish is where to begin.